Training

 WET FEET TRAINING ARTICLES 

1.How to Create a Water Loving Dog

2.A Water Aptitude  Evaluation

3.First Swim Lesson

4.Foundation for the Team Swim

5.The Basic Retrieve

6.Canine Water Sports Rules: 

a.Water Event Etiquette

b.Rules to Protect the Environment

c.Water Safety Rules

1.  How to Create a Water Loving Dog

Here is a simple water enrichment program that works for most dogs

Put you dog's life jacket on and leave him on shore.  Take his toys into shallow water and drop them in as he is watching.  Then play with his toys -- be the biggest fool you can.  Dance, crawl around and laugh.  Pretend the water is rich with wonderful smells and exciting objects.  Drop floating treats in the water when he is not looking.  If he is now asking you to release him -- do so.  Then you dash back into the water. Hands off while he is exploring.  Permit him a loose lead if leashed.

Joyfully reward whatever level of interest your dog initially shows toward the water, including looking at, touching, entering or otherwise exploring the water.  Avoid luring the dog into the water with hand held food/toys.  Let the toys in (and treats on) the water work for you.  It is important that you only reinforce him with treats after he has made an effort to explore the water.  Celebrate big time if he picks up a toy in the water or engages in playful behavior.

Watch for reasons to praise and treat.  Be generous with your patience and love.  Sit down or float in the water and observe your dog.  As he explores praise and treat for looking at objects in the water, sniffing the water, pawing the water, licking the water, for exploring water life, walking in deeper and, of course, for efforts to float or swim.

If he leaves the water and heads back up on land, pack up and return on another day.  Repeat the game.  If you have other dogs who love the water, bring one with you next time and let your dog watch  a water-loving dog play.  With repeated happy, safe and rewarding visits to the water, you and your dog may grow into a real water team.

Yes, the most spectacular splash hounds do come from parents with an affinity for water play;  however, there are other factors that affect a dog's desire for water fun.

During puppyhood early fun and safe exposures to water can go far to foster a desire for canine water play.  However, an unfavorable water experience, during a period when a pup is sorting his world into safe and unsafe, may have a strong emotional impact. Whether water becomes a future source of pleasure will depend on the pup's degree of confidence, his perception of the event and future positive exposures to water.

Perception is a personal experience for dogs, too., Two dogs entering the water at the same time will not experience the event in the same way or to the same emotional degree.  A cautious dog may quickly find reasons to become concerned about his safety and choose to leave the water for more familiar ground.  A confident pup may find the environment a curiosity or even pleasurable and choose to explore the water -- becoming a puddle pouncer by his own desire.

Structure and coat type may play a role in a dog's desire to swim.  A dog whose body type lends itself to a high buoyancy factor (fat/muscle ratio and lung capacity) may find swimming much easier than a dog whose buoyancy factor creates a special endurance challenge.  Some dogs have coats that act like a sponge in the water.  This may feel like you or I trying to swim with a winter coat. Not much fun for a dog either.

Weather and water conditions effect water play.  Some dogs seem unaffected by cold choppy sea water while other dogs retreat under such conditions.  Certainly wind, weather, temperatures, water currents and action, and water type (fresh or salt) play a role in our enjoyment of a day at the beach.   Why would it be different for our dogs?

Health is another factor that effects a dog's desire to be in the water. An undetected injury, illness or disease can turn water work into a very unpleasant experience. Even after the injury or illness has been healed the dog may still associate the water or a water game with pain and or fear.  (Hydrotherapy is best left to professionals and conditions where the injured dog is worked in a regulated environment.)

Compulsion is never recommended.  Taking away a dog's choice to seek safety or to explore water at his own pace may very well escalate his fear and create handler and/or water avoidance behaviors.  Insisting that a dog enter the water will not foster his desire to swim. Convinced I was causing no harm, I gently released one of my water-avoiding pups in shallow water and let him swim to shore.  It took four years before that dog would willingly allow me near him around water.  He chose to swim on his own at age four and gradually forgave me.  When a dog tells you "no" to water, respect him.  It is not worth compromising your friendship.  Life is not a race.  Give him plenty of happy opportunities to explore the water on his own and he may surprise you one day!  Some of the best puddle pouncers are nontraditional water dogs!

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2.  A Water Aptitude Evaluation

Water attraction and enthusiasm for water play is predominately genetic but not necessarily breed specific.  For some handlers it will be a training task just to keep their dog out of the water. Other dogs may require some play and positive association to awaken their water instincts. And, a few handlers may be able to teach their dog to swim, but may always struggle with their dog’s enthusiasm for water play.  Here are some suggestions for discovering your pup's or inexperienced dog's water aptitude.

1.  Have a plan and select your site wisely.

A. Select a warm clear day for water introduction.

B. Select a clean site (land & water) with cool , not cold, water and minimal distractions.  If you wouldn’t swim in it - don’t send your dog into it.

C. A water site that has a safe graduated entrance is ideal. This allows the dog an opportunity to safely explore water depth at his own pace.

D. Make sure the area is safe, above and below. Check for and avoid dense muddy conditions, glass, rusty or sharp objects, biohazardous  materials (in or near the water) including lawn care products, overpopulation of water fowl, fishing gear (hooks & lines), and submerged trees & junk.  Watch for wildlife that may be a threat, (i.e. snakes, mud wasps and large snapping turtles - in the ocean watch for creatures that sting and coral).

E. Bring a hungry, healthy, alert and well rested dog to the water.

F. Prepare the most tasty treats you can for your dog. Include food that floats -like nitrate free hot dogs and freeze dried liver cookies and food that sinks like cheese or cooked meat. Bring the dog’s favorite toys, (floating and submergible).

G. Continuously monitor your dog for health issues. Watch for changes in normal movement, withdrawal from activities, any sudden temperament changes, or work refusal, any of which may be signs of an illness or injury. Feel your dog’s entire body - does he feel strong and healthy or does he pull away or cry when you touch a body part? Check inside ears. Make sure they are dry and look and smell clean. Are eyes clear? Are paw pads free of sores & debris?

H. Practice water safety.  Handlers  wear water shoes, a life jacket and protective clothing (canine claws can be quite painful); always train with another person; leave a note at home or tell someone where you will be and for how long; bring a phone for emergencies; remove canine throat collars - use a harness if flight restraint is needed; learn canine and human CPR; and bring a first aid kit that includes an instruction manual.

2. Create a positive association with the water while evaluating the dog’s natural water attraction level.  Keep the experience safe!  Watch for safety hazards or anything that may frighten your pup.

IMPORTANT Do not compel, or physically guide the dog in anyway during this test for natural water attraction. A floating line may be attached to the dog’s harness to prevent flight, but must not be use to force the dog into the water.

A. Allow the dog the opportunity to quietly explore the water on his own. Watch for a natural desire to enter and explore the water. Watch for his attraction to people, animals or things in the water. A confident dog will quickly enter the water and begin exploring the shore and things in the water.

B. Without verbalizing - drop floating treats into the water near the dog. Then drop some a little further away from the dog, same water depth. If the dog appears confident and willing, drop some treats a little deeper (but not quite swim depth) and watch for determination and willingness to go to deeper water. A confident dog will not appear concerned about the water depth and if hungry will hunt down every goody in the water and may even swim on his own to get one that floated out deeper.

C. Have an assistant sit quietly in shallow water with some food and toys.  Watch to see if and when the dog enters the water to solicit the food/toys.  The assistant may offer the dog food.  A confident dog will play with the assistant in the water.

D. If available - let a friendly experienced dog swim and play in the presence of the inexperienced dog.  If a dog is not available send a playful person into the water and have them swim and play enthusiastically with a toy. Allow the student to watch.  Observe his reaction and note any desire to join the experienced water dog/person.  Release and observe the inexperienced dog--does he enter the water?  

E. Drop toys and food that sink into shallow water and watch dog’s effort to obtain these objects. A confident dog will work at getting these out of the water. The dog may even naturally put his muzzle or entire head underwater to get the desired object (or just for fun).

IMPORTANT If a dog is unwilling to enter the water or to play with the assistant and handler end the session until another time or day. Repeat again and watch for confidence in the water. 

Discuss noted observations with experienced water dog  handlers. Once the dog’s natural level of water attraction is recognized the handler may begin their water training program.

Keep in mind dogs lacking water attraction and confidence may require a much more gradual training plan with lots of encouragement and reinforcement for the smallest amount of effort on the dog’s part to enter and play in the water. Playing in the water is a significant achievement and should be celebrated with lots of enthusiastic praise and affection.

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3.  First Swim Lesson

1. Introduce your dog to a canine water sports harness and a canine life jacket, if one is to be used.  Allow the dog time to adjust to the new dog wear.  Fuss and praise the dog for modeling them in the house and on walks.

2. Select a calm water site with nice warm clear weather. At the water, put on the dog's harness and life jacket.  The jacket will help build confidence and reduce the chances of a fear provoking accident occurring while the dog is learning to swim.  Bring your dog into shallow water with toys and or treats.   Allow the dog time to become comfortable wearing the life jacket and harness in the water.  Play and treat.  Watch for signs of relaxed and confident dog

3. When the dog appears comfortable move him to a point just before swim depth and encourage the dog to take that step into deeper water where he will begin to float off the bottom. (Dogs lacking in water attraction may require days or weeks of positive exposure to the water to acquire the confidence to reach this point). Handler may verbally encourage, toss a treat or toy, or send a companion dog out to swim to entice the dog to lift off the bottom.

As soon as the dog lifts off, the handler should support the dog physically as needed.  PRAISE and guide him back to shallow water. Treat the dog while he is standing in shallow water. If a lure is used keep it low and level with the water and just ahead of the dog’s nose. Guide the dog forward with his head above and level with the water like an alligator. Gently place the back of a hand under the dog’s stomach , offer mild support if needed to keep the dog level in the water. Be calm and say nothing if the dog begins to panic. Smoothly guide him to shore. Remain quiet and let him recover alone. Evaluate his performance and confidence level, repeat if dog is willing.

4. The instant the dog first lifts off without assistance, celebrate the moment with enthusiastic praise and joy, and reinforce his effort to swim on his own.

A.  Gradually increase the duration of the swim. Keep it parallel to shore. (Distance from shore is a separate criteria).

B. Reinforce dog for keeping his balance while encouraging and practicing turns.

C. Increase confidence, speed, and endurance.

D. Practice during different weather and water conditions.

E. Remove the life jacket and encourage the dog to swim on his own. Big celebration when the dog swims.

5. Teach the team swim: SEE Lesson Plan for TEAM SWIM.

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4. Foundation for the Team Swim

1.   On dry land make eye contact with your dog and immediately reinforce the dog for eye contact. Practice. With eye contact take one step forward and reinforce dog for maintaining eye contact. Praise enthusiastically when the dog takes the step forward with you. Take another step and reinforce the dog for moving with you. Take several steps and reinforce the dog for following. Practice. When the dog is able to move 20 steps with you while keeping his attention on you take the dog to shallow water.

2. Encourage the dog to follow you into shallow water - no deeper than your dog’s elbow. Get eye contact and take one step. Celebrate if the dog follows - lots of treats. Gradually increase the number of steps forward - reinforcing the dog as you go. Turn slowly and deliberately, reinforce the dog for making the turn with you. If at any point the dog becomes distracted - call the dog back to eye contact, praise and treat for return of attention. Constant eye contact is not necessary, but continue to reward the dog for staying with you and giving you his attention. Practice parallel to shore until the dog easily moves with you. Change your pace and add more turns.

3. Move to swim depth water for your dog, but do not go into water that is above your waist. It is important that your dog not have an opportunity to climb on you. Reward your dog for following you, keeping pace, making the turns and for regaining focus when distractions appear. Have a friend create distractions for you so you can reward your dog for ignoring them. Gradually increase the amount of time your dog remains swimming and following you to build up endurance. Avoid swimming him until he is fatigued, quit early to maintain enthusiasm for the game, Practice.

Note: Treats fed in the water are best offered just above the surface of the water, in front of the dog’s nose and delivered in a brushing motion. Bring the treat down to the dog, keep your feeding hand skimming the water surface just ahead of the dog’s nose and let the dog swim into the treat. This brushing-the-water delivery of the treat will keep your dog in the correct swim posture to prevent him from sinking. Practice deliveries until you are both comfortable.

4. At the end of each swim practice teach your dog to go to "shore". Teach him using a verbal command combined with a hand signal directing him toward shore. Turn your body so you are facing toward shore and encourage your dog to move to your side. Vertically blade your hand, palm facing you. Place your hand in line with your dog’s ear. Then push your hand and forearm forward toward shore, as if sawing a piece of wood, and say "shore". Both of you then return to shore.

5. After your dog has built up endurance and can swim for several minutes begin a new game Wonder Circles. While your dog is swimming in shallow water, you make a full stop and just stand in the water. Your dog will wonder what happened. Encourage him dog to swim a circle around you. You may guide the dog by tapping the water or using a lure (food or toy) to get the behavior started. Keep the dog at least an arm’s length away from you, but no further away than six feet. Celebrate big time for the first circle. Then move forward a few more steps and stop for another circle game! This time do less guiding - get the circle started and then stand still. Keep practicing until your dog, without your guidance, will immediately circle you when you stop.

To make the game more fun, respond to your dog’s successful circle by surprising him with a sudden splashing burst forward, Laugh and tease him to follow you as fast as he can - then let him catch up for a treat! For ball loving dogs, hold a tennis ball under the water as deep as you can and let it fly to the surface just as the dog completes his circles.

Gradually. hold your stop position for longer periods of time - until your dog will continue to circle you for one minute. This is a challenging lesson for your dog - reward and show your pleasure for his success! Keep the training sessions short and happy!

6. Next, add a "wait" and a "come" to your practice session. While on shore , facing the water, command the dog to sit, stand or down. Sweep the palm of your hand in front of the dog’s nose, then take a small step away. Allow the dog to hold the position for two seconds. Then joyously give a release command ("come", "free-dog" or other word) and playfully celebrate with the dog’. Tease and run into the water for more play. Practice until the dog understands he must hold his position until hearing the release word. Then gradually increase the duration of the wait. Be sure to explode into play with the release. However, ignore mistakes or any anticipation. Show no emotion, gently bring him back to his original spot and start over. Let your heart and focus be on celebrating when he succeeds in waiting. To keep him guessing vary the duration of his wait in each repetition, Make one repetition’s wait time short , the next a little longer, then back to a short wait and so on. Keep it a fun game with lots of play and laughter after the release. Practice until your dog will remain on shore for a minute.

7. Next, gradually move away from your dog, a few steps further at a time, then give the release and run into the water. Increase your distance until you can walk 25 feet into the water and your dog will wait for your command. As you are practicing for distance vary each repetition with a different distance - like one short, one long and then one medium and so on. Celebrate big time for his success!

8. Combine the "wait" on shore, "come" to you, "swim" with you, "circles" and the return to "shore" as one task. When you have this lessons mastered move to chest deep water.

9. At this new depth reward your dog for remaining near you and keeping a safe distance. Practice.

10. Next, test your dog’s reaction to being eye level with you. While in waist or chest deep water dip down into the water, pretend you are in very deep water. For some dogs just seeing your face level with the water surface will  trigger a desire to climb on you. Avoid giving him an opportunity to climb on you Watch for signs from your dog that he intends to climb on you. (Like direct eye contact with whining and a fast "alligator" approach to you). Stand up and redirect his attention by tapping the water at arms length away. Encourage him to circle you. Tell him to "go out" if he crowding you. Move to more shallow water if you need better control. Immediately praise him for moving away and not climbing on you. Practice until you can move as a team without the dog showing any interest of climbing on you. This is an extremely important lesson. Do not attempt to swim with your dog until you are sure your dog will not climb on you.

 11. When your dog is ready move the training sessions to chest deep water. Tell your dog " lets swim". Then stretch out and begin to swim with your dog. At first, for safety reasons. keep the team swim parallel to shore. Reward the dog for remaining with you and behaving appropriately. If the dog leaves you or attempts to climb on you - go back to more shallow water and repeat steps 9 & 10.

12. Gradually increase your swim distance from shore to 100+ ft. Gradually increase swim duration to 5 Min. or more. Add a zigzag swim pattern into your practice. Put the entire task together. Practice.

13. Change swim handlers to teach the dog to swim safely with a variety of swimmers. Adults - vary by age, size & sex Children - vary by age, size & sex. Unfamiliar people Practice at a variety of water sites and under a variety of conditions.

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5. The Basic Retrieve

Purpose: To have a dog who quickly and enthusiastically retrieves an object, whether it is placed, tossed or held by another person and delivers that object into an open hand .

Training Objective: At the handler’s command the dog immediately and quickly moves to the designated object and takes it in his mouth; then quickly and directly returns to the handler with the object, waits for the open hand and drops the object into the handler’s hand.

Equipment: Eight inch piece of 5/8 wood dowel

Notes: For dogs who have inadvertently learned to play keep away with objects, place the dog on a lead until he learns moving the object to your hand gets the reinforcement. The lead should only be used to prevent flight.

Work with a well rested, slightly hungry dog, for whom you have made a ton of delicious meaty treats.

The Clicker is a wonderful training tool to use in the teaching of this task. If you are not using a Clicker - use a word (like "yes") or other sound to mark the training moment. Learn more about Clicker Training at www.clickertraining.org or check out books by Karen Pryor and others at www.dogwise.com

Lessons:

1. While seated in a chair or on the floor grasp the training dowel by an end and present it to the dog. Some dogs will snatch the dowel from your hand on the first presentation - (click!) enthusiastically praise and treat your dog! For those dogs who need to be encouraged - watch for and give praise and treats if the dog looks at, bumps, licks, or mouths the dowel. Continue to raise expectations - reinforce any effort on the dog’s part to open his mouth over the dowel and take it. When he does take it from your hand celebrate with treats and hugs. It doesn't matter if the dog drops the dowel to get his treats. This lesson is to teach the dog the dowel is his target and he should take it into his mouth.

2. In the next step you will change your training emphasis from the take-it to the drop-it! Once the dog is grabbing the dowel on his own you must switch to rewarding the dog only for placing the dowel into your open hand. When the dog understands putting the object in your hand is what gets him his favorite reward he will race for the object, bring it to you and HOLD-IT as long as it takes to get it into your hand. 

Begin this lesson by holding the dowel in the palm of your hand. Have a treat (or a special toy if he is not motivated by your treats at the moment) in your other hand. Let the dog grab the dowel. As he does so, lightly wrap two fingers over an end of the dowel, Immediately show the dog the treat/toy. The moment the dowel begins to drop into your hand (click!) praise & treat (or toss the toy) . Big celebration! Repeat. At this point there is no need to name this behavior; no need to tell the dog to "take-it" or "drop-it"

To teach this lesson, place the dowel in your hand and allow the dog to grab the dowel from your hand. Cup your hand under the dog’s mouth without touching the dowel and wait. If he is slow to release - show him the treat and wait. Mark the moment (click! or "yes") when the dog releases the dowel into your open hand and exuberantly praise/treat. Practice! Next, place the dowel in an outstretched hand and let the dog take it. When your dog lifts the dowel, pull away the hand that held the dowel. Let your dog see you open your other hand, palm up. Celebrate when the dog moves the dowel to your other hand. Look for his deliberate effort to take the dowel and place it into your other hand before moving on to the next step. Some dogs may understand this lesson very quickly, others may need lots of practice sessions.

3. Gradually lower the dowel to the floor with each repetition and let him move the dowel to you.

Important: Avoid the temptation to reach out and grab the dowel (or any other retrieve object) from the dog. Let the dog PLACE the article into your hand. Your open hand is the cue for the dog to approach and give you the object. Keep your hand close to your body and be patient - the dog will come into you to make the delivery. Gently receive the object underhanded, from below the dog’s jaw, to reduce the risk of mouth injuries.

4. Gradually work the retrieves to the point where you can place the dowel on the floor between you and your dog and the dog will lift the dowel and place it in your open hand. Celebrate!

If in the prior lessons you were teaching from a position on the floor or in a chair - lets try a new position. For the next retrieve, place the dowel on the floor between you and the dog and then stand up for the delivery. Reward the dog for his delivery!

5. Up until this point the mere presence of the dowel has gotten the dog to move for a retrieve - now its time to give the behavior a name. What ever you decided to call his retrieve behavior, ("Take-it", "Get-it", "Fetch" or something else), your are now going to consistently use that word to tell the dog when you want him to retrieve. Place the dowel on the floor and say your cue for the retrieve behavior. At this stage you can encourage him - cheer him on and point at the object. Practice to allow the dog time to associate the cue word with the expected behavior. Gradually cut back on all the encouragement while he is working and save that pride and joy for when he delivers to your hand. Celebrate big time!

6. You have introduced the dog to a word that is going to be your "cue" for the dog to take the dowel. Now, teach him to wait until he recognizes your cue before he moves to take the dowel. Put the dowel down. Block his body from jumping for the dowel with your hand, if needed. Hold your hand up for a couple of seconds, then tell him to take the dowel and move your hand. Repeat a few times. Watch to see if he remains relaxed while you put the dowel down. Hold back bringing your hand up to block him if he remains in the same spot. Now send him for the dowel. Celebrate his recognition of and immediate response to your cue. Don’t worry about teaching your dog a formal "stay" at this point. Your focus is on teaching him to recognize your verbal cue. If he happens to get past your blocking and grabs the dowel - let him. He gets NO reaction from you. Quietly take the dowel and reposition him. Reserve your emotional reactions for when he succeeds. He will sense something is not quite right - you didn't get all excited when he brought the dowel back. A dog who makes a few mistakes will learn that absent your cue he gets nothing for his effort. Give him a moment to think about what just happened. If he is a good dog and settles down with his attention on you - continue the lesson. If not, end the session.

7. Next step, bring your dog to your side, facing the same direction as you. Place the dowel a few feet in front of the dog. Say your cue for the dog to take the dowel and watch him go for it. Celebrate his delivery to your hand. 

Gradually increase the distance the dog travels from your side to the dowel. (For now, place the dowel -tossing comes later). Gradually increase distractions. Remember if he anticipates your command, quietly place him back on his spot with the dowel in front and repeat.

8. "Front" is a position taken by the dog just before the delivery to hand. The dog is considered to be in the front position when the dog is facing you, almost touching and has his spine in a perpendicular line with the front of your body. The sport of Obedience requires the dog to sit while in the front position. Water Sports tests do not require a formal front, just a good hand delivery. However, the front behavior is easy to teach and looks sharp at a water test.

To teach this behavior, begin seated on the edge of a chair. Open your legs to form a "V" opening and show your dog the way around your legs and up into the base of the "V". Lift a treat up just above your dog’s head and rock him back into a sit. Treat the dog when he has fitted himself in against your waist and is in a sit position. Show your dog a treat and toss it to your left or right. Just as the dog finds the treat, say "front" and encourage the dog to find the correct position. Repeat. Gradually reduce the "V" opening. Bring your legs closer together to force dog to face straight into you. Toss another treat, give the front command, and let the dog find its way into the front position without your help. Show lots of excitement for his new trick. After some practice, move to a more upright position, balance yourself on a taller chair or the arm of a chair. Repeat until the dog is quickly finding the correct front position. Next, stand up and face the dog, toss a treat, call the dog to front and reward for success! Add a short toy toss and have the dog return the toy to "front". Bingo! You have a new game to play.

9. Next, place the dog a few feet away from you. Place the dowel in front of the dog on the floor. Tell the dog to get the dowel. (Click) Praise & treat for a delivery to hand. Gradually increase your distance from the dog and the dowel. Place the dowel at different heights - like on chairs or low tables to add a variable to the retrieve game. Place the dowel behind, left or right of the dog and give the retrieve command. This is a fun game! Make a big deal out of his successes. Remember if he anticipates your command, quietly place him back on his spot with the dowel in front and repeat.

Important: At this stage, avoid being a cheerleader while your dog is working. You want him to listen for important information and not to become desensitized to your non stop chatter.

10. "Hold" is part of the retrieve behavior. The "hold" does not require a separate command or cue. To increase the duration of your dog’s "hold" simply delay presenting your open hand. Remember your training history has made your hand the dog’s target - the dog will hold the dowel until he can get  it into a open hand. If you have taught your dog the "front" position, the dog’s default behavior automatically becomes returning to the front position, sitting and waiting for the open hand.

11. Up to this point you have been placing the dowel. Now, you are going to teach the dog to retrieve a tossed the dowel. Give the dowel a short toss Send the dog with a clear enthusiastic "take-it" cue and watch him fly!

a. Practice with a wait, toss and send.

b. Practice with someone else tossing the dowel.

c. Toss behind you or to the left or right sometimes - be creative.

d. Gradually increase the distance of the toss.

12. When you change training environments, go back to an easy simple retrieve and rebuild for distance and distractions.

13. Change the retrieve dowel to another object. Remember to lower your expectations and rebuild his confidence with short easy retrieves. Teach your dog to retrieve a variety of textures, weights and sizes. Include smell as a variable - your dog should be willing to retrieve objects that do not have his/your scent on them.

14. Name objects to be retrieved, like "line", "dummy" or "paddle". Teach your dog to recognize the object’s name and to retrieve that object for you.

15. You are ready to introduce this retrieving fool to Water Retrieve Work!

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A.  Water Event Etiquette

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B.  Rules to Protect the Environment

Our continued enjoyment of the great outdoors and canine water sports is dependent upon our efforts to preserve our living world. Help protect Nature by following these simple acts of respect and kindness:

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C.  Water Safety Rules

This Page Last Updated February 07, 2002.

For further information, contact info@caninewatersports.com 

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